IPM - Part 3

“The difference between the right word and the almost right word is the difference between lightening and a lightening bug” - Mark Twain

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Integrated Pest Management – IPM (continued)

After a lot of searching, reading, getting confused, starting over, I ran almost ran out of energy. I’ll try to summarize the rest of my research. So hopefully I’m using the “right word” not the “almost right word” ----- or the completely wrong word ---- or omitting an important point. I’ve included a link in each section if you would like more information.

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Mechanical Control of the Adult Beetle

Mechanical methods are very straightforward. Just pop the little buggers into a bucket of soapy water. (And hope they don’t fly away before they hit the suds.) It is suggested this be done in the early morning when they are sleepy.

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Chemical control of grubs

It’s possible to reduce the number of Japanese beetles by attacking the larval stage if the insecticide is applied at the right time. (See part 1.)

One product advertised for Grub control is Grubex manufactured by The Scott Company.

According to Pesticide Action Network (PAN) the hazard warning label is: “III Caution” or slight toxicity.

The active ingredient is halofenozid which is listed as a “potential” groundwater contaminant. It is easy to apply with the proper spreader setting. One bag costs about $20 and covers 5,000 sq. ft.

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Biological control of grubs

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Milky Spore - Bacillus popilliae

Bacteria can also be used to combat grubs. Milky Spore Bacillus popilliae is specific for Japanese beetle larvae. The US EPA fact sheet includes a description of the active ingredients, its uses and risks.

Milky spore is found naturally in the soil and is not harmful to humans. It does not affect beneficial insects. On the downside, it is relatively expensive and may require application for 3 or 4 years before it is effective. But it may be effective for 10 years.

At Gardener’s Supply a 10 oz can of Milky Spore powder costs $39.95 and covers 2,500 sq. ft.

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Nematodes - Heterorhabditis bacteriophora

“Biological Control: A guide to Natural Enemies in North America,” Cornell University notes: Relative effectiveness depends on several factors. They have to be kept alive during shipping and application.

Nematodes are roundworms that have a very short “shelf life” Nematodes need to be kept wet and breakdown rapidly in sunlight and are effective in a narrow range of temperature. When used correctly they can be very effective

You can buy 1 million nematodes in Grub Guard (Steinernema sp. and Heterorhabditis sp.) at Gardener’s Supply for $19.95.

The biggest drawback to using nematodes seems to be the difficulty in application.

Grub Guard –Norganics.com is a manufacturer of organic fertilizers in Bradford Vermont. “Grub Guard nematodes are shipped alive and should be released into a thoroughly moist soil or growing media as soon as possible.”

Thirteen instructions for application, mixing and dilution are listed.

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Bt - Bacillus thuringiensis

University of Virginia Extension lists several varieties of Bt. It would be necessary to find the right variety for grubs.

Bt occurs naturally in soil. Bt products are applied much like synthetic insecticides and treatments are inactivated within one to a few days in many outdoor situations. Repeated applications may be necessary for some crops and pests.

Bt products need to be handled with care. Inhaling dusts or mists may cause allergic reaction or if rubbed on the skin may cause irritation. It is advised that you wear gloves, long sleeves and long trousers during application and wash thoroughly afterwards.

There are several online sites that offer Bt products for sale.

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CONCLUSION

This series of posts was really not about the Japanese beetle. As I worked on the series I tried to follow one pest through the IPM process as honestly, objectively and logically as I could.

The posts are really about the ease or difficulty of the IPM process.

Did I make this process harder than it needs to be? Am I missing something? I don’t know.

I learned a lot during the process. There are now more things that I won’t have to search out again. Somehow a great idea like Integrated Pest Management should be easier for the average gardener. I think it is worth the effort if we are truly concerned about the environment.

What are your thoughts about Integrated Pest Management?

(Comments, arguments, corrections welcome)

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Taking a Break

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I’m taking a break from IPM research to enjoy the Bethlehem Garden Club’s Flower Show. (See Bethlehem Garden Club link at right for details.) The show continues today from 10 AM to 3 PM.

I’ll continue with IPM on Wednesday.

Here are some pictures from the show.

Horticulture

Design

Special Exhibits




Bake Sale



Plant Sale
and Raffle

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(Dear fellow garden bloomdayers,

I've cheated a bit here to include this blog as my bloomday post. The show was much more interesting than the yellow Knock-out rose, calendula, sweet alyssum and snapdragon blooming in my garden. Carol at May Dreams Garden is the host of this wondeful event on the 15th of every month. Sorry Carol - The devil made me do it.)

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IPM - Part 2

Integrated Pest Management - IPM (Continued from last post)

"Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot,

Nothing is going to get better. It's not."
— Dr. Seuss, from The Lorax

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This is an extremely long post and for that, I apologize. Even with all its length, I could not cover everything. It is not a scholarly work – I am as far from being a chemist as anyone could be - but I’m determined to continue my journey through IPM with the Japanese beetle as best I can.

In order to make an informed decision, I need to understand the effects of the options from the last post - chemical, biological or mechanical. I started with a spray for adult beetle.

Spraying – Chemical Control of Adult Japanese Beetle

Have you ever read a pesticide label - that is, assuming you have excellent eyesight or a magnifying glass? Directions for use are very clear. “Read the label and follow the directions”, has become a gardening mantra. I can do that.

But what is in the spray? I chose Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Flower Insect Killer because it is labeled for Japanese beetles (adult). I mean to neither promote nor condemn this product but I had to pick something. I have not used this product. This is simply an example of what it took for me to understand a pesticide label.

Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Flower Insect Killer label:
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
ß-cyfluthrin................................. 0.0015%
Imidacloprid.............................. 0.012%
OTHER INGREDIENTS.................... 99.9865%
100.0000%
ß-cyfluthrin is the chemical name for Tempo® Ultra.
Imidacloprid is the chemical name for Merit®.
EPA Reg. No. 72155-28
EPA Est. No. indicated by 2nd and 3rd digits of the batch number on
this package. (65) = 432-TX-1 (39) = 58996-MO-1
(68) = 67572-GA-1 (75) = 5905-AR-1 3953398 R.0


I used Extoxnet and clicked on Pesticide Information Profiles (PIP) link to find the chemicals in this spray. It reads like a scholarly/governmental publication.

As far as I can tell from the label, this spray is in Toxicity Category III – “Caution” (Slightly Toxic). The Toxicity Categories are: IV None, III Caution; II Warning, I Danger - with “Category I Danger” being the most toxic. This scale is based on the LD50 number.

LD50 is the amount of pesticide, measured in milligrams per kilogram of body weight, that will kill one half of the exposed population.

First, ß-cyfluthrin – Tempo® Ultra

LD50 for a 150 lb. human for category III Caution ingestion total of one ounce to one pint, I think. I could use some help here. I found the Toxicity section of Extoxnet difficult to understand. From what I got it would take a pint of Cyfluthrin to kill 50% of the chickens or something like that. If you understand this measurement, please enlighten me. The amount of beta-cyfluthrin in this spray is .0015% in 24 fl. oz. or close to 1/25th of an ounce.

“Cyfluthrin is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide that has both contact and stomach poison action” What is a pyrethroid? Pyrethroids are axonic poisons. Definition from Wikipedia: “Pyrethroids are axonic poisons that work by keeping the sodium channels open in the neuronal membranes of insects.” (Huh?)

There is a lot more information in the PIP but how much can you read before your brain goes tilt?


Next, Imidacloprid - Merit®.

Extension Toxicology Network search for Imidacloprid brought up a Pesticide Information Profile. “Imidacloprid is a systemic, chloro-nicotinyl insecticide with soil, seed and foliar uses for the control of sucking insects…”

I won’t go through the entire toxicity report. Imidacloprid is moderately toxic to mammals. LD50 is 450 mg/kg body weight in rats – the low end of category III Warning. The spray contains .012% or somewhere near 1/5th of an ounce.

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Environmental Effect

I thought I would look at the Environmental Fate section of the PIP and try to understand the long term effects of Imidacloprid on the environment. “The half-life of imidacloprid in soil is 48-190 days, depending on the amount of ground cover.” “The half-life in water is much greater than 31 days at pH 5, 7 and 9. No other information was found.” I have no idea what the “Breakdown of Chemical in Vegetation” section means.

Effects on other animals

Are there animals that eat the beetles that will be affected by the poisons? I remember the disastrous effect of DDT sprays on birds. I couldn’t find any helpful information on this level.

Also, while eliminating one pest, I don’t want to kill beneficial insects and make my garden problems worse. A warning on the label:“• Apply the product to flowering plants during early morning or late evening, when bees are not present.” I must assume it will kill beneficial insects and another good reason to follow label directions.

What about groundwater contamination? Since it is sprayed on foliage groundwater contamination does not seem to be a major concern.

Agriicultural and Environmental News from Dr. Allan S. Felsot, Environmental Toxicologist, a Washington State University has this to say:

"Imidacloprid has a comparatively high water solubility (510 mg/L) and very low vapor pressure (1.9 x 10-9 mm Hg), so it is unlikely to evaporate from soil and plant surfaces and become an air contaminant. On the other hand, its biodegradation rate in soil has been characterized as moderately slow, with about 50% of the applied residue dissipating in a range of 48-190 days.”

Other Ingredients

Who knows what 99.9865 “other ingredients” are? The answer, it turns out, is no one except the manufacturer.

According to EPA “Regulating Pesticides”

“An inert ingredient means any substance (or group of structurally similar substances if designated by the Agency), other than an active ingredient, which is intentionally included in a pesticide product. Inert ingredients play a key role in the effectiveness of a pesticidal product. For example, inert ingredients may serve as a solvent, allowing the pesticide's active ingredient to penetrate a plant's outer surface. . .”

I hope you can see difficulty of trying to interpret the pesticide label. I hope my conclusions are correct. (I kind of gave up at the end of this post and resorted to quotes. Sorry.)

One conclusion – we need an easier way for the public to make informed decisions about pesticide use. At least there is somewhere to look for information.

It seems that “slightly toxic” is just that – but it is not without concerns.

Next post will look at grub control and mechanical methods. I hope you return.

(Comments, arguments, corrections welcome)


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Bethlehem Garden Club Flower Show

“Home for the Holidays”

to benefit BGC Scholarship Fund.
Ideas galore for your holiday décor.
Sale of house plants, baked goods, holiday decorations, books.
BGC always does a beautiful job. Come and enjoy.
Location: Advent Moravian Church, 3730 Jacksonville Rd. Bethlehem.

Dates: Friday, November 13, 3-8, Saturday November 14, 10-3.

Free.
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IPM – Part 1

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Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

Man at the market: "My wife asked me to buy ORGANIC vegetables. Have these been sprayed with any poisonous chemicals?" - "No," replied the gardener, "you'll have to do that yourself." Anon.

I sat in on an IPM class at Lehigh County Extension this week. I came away determined to better understand IPM use in a home garden. It turned into a major project. I’ll try to follow my steps on this and subsequent posts. I hope I don’t cause you to doze off or run screaming from your monitor.

Integrated Pest Management definition: A scientific approach to effectively manage pests while minimizing negative effects on the environment.

“IPM for the Home Garden” by Karen Delahaut, Integrated Pest Management Specialist, University of Wisconsin-Madison explains it better than I ever could.

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Possible slug damage on Rudbeckia.

(The basic management methods for IPM including plant selection, maintenance, etc. are listed in my IPM post of December 7, 2007 and are a very important part of Integrated Pest Management.)

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IPM is a decision making process. The steps: 1) Properly identify the pest and it’s life cycle. 2) Monitor the pests’ presence, locations and abundance. 3) Establish a limit to the amount of pests you can tolerate. 4) Decide on a plan of action (or non-action).

I’ll try to follow the Japanese beetle through the IPM process.

IDENTIFICATION.

Most gardeners recognize the hard-shelled, iridescent beetle and it’s destruction on trees, vines, roses, canna and other ornamental plants. That’s the simple part and the reason I chose Japanese beetle. Some pests are not so easy to recognize. And Japanese beetles give most gardeners fits in my area. So . . . check off identification.

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Japanese beetle on bean leaf.

PRESENCE, LOCATION, ABUNDANCE and TOLERANCE:

In 2007, Japanese beetles overran my garden. The last two years populations have been much less. How many beetles are too many? For some gardeners the answer is one. Others will put up with a few. Some will gardeners tolerate a chewing mob of beetles and just ignore them.

LIFE CYCLE.

I’ll begin a year-long life span of the Japanese beetle when they are seen happily chewing away on a plant. The female leaves the plant from time to time and burrows into the soil to lay eggs. The eggs hatch in midsummer and the grubs begin to feed on roots. They remain in the soil becoming inactive going deeper in cold weather. They move toward the surface again in early spring. In warmer weather they turn into pupae and adults emerge to start the cycle over.

THE OPTIONS

Japanese beetles are difficult to kill in the adult stage. Pheromone traps that have been developed confuse breeding beetles but tend to eliminate only about 50% or 60% of the population. Traps actually attract more beetles to the garden. There are sprays that may kill the beetles. I have not heard many good reports of the effectiveness of sprays.

Hand picking into a bucket of soapy water every morning when they are slow to move is an excellent non-chemical solution but it may not be an option for every gardener. This may be the best practice if there is a low count or if the gardener has a high tolerance for large populations.

There are options that are effective in the larval stage. Here timing is important. Grubs need to be near the surface which usually happens in June or July here in zone 6. We can tell when there are grubs near the surface in our yard. When the skunks forage for grubs at night, they leave round shallow holes in the grass. This is a sure sign that grubs are near the surface. Lifting a small clump of sod will also unearth some grubs.

I am trying to keep an open mind. I’ll look at the options in the next blog. Are we having fun yet?

In the meantime, here are two publications recommended by Lyn Garling, Program Manager PA IPM, Penn State University “Welcome to IPM” and the ”Extension Toxicology Network”.

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(Comments, arguments, corrections welcome.)

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Garden Bloggers Death Day

I’m a little late for Garden Bloggers Death Day started by Kate at Gardening Without Skills. Postings are usually done on the last day of the month.

I planted this little shrub, marked “Pinus - Pine Shrub”, in June. I don’t know what happened. It just didn’t make it. Purchased at Home Depot for $19.97 on a whim, I guess it wasn't meant to be. I'll try another evergreen in spring.

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Sheffield Pink Mum

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If you like garden mums, the hardy Sheffield Pink (AKA Chrysanthemum koreanum ‘Single Apricot’) is hard to beat. It’s one of my favorites.

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It is a reliable and showy bloomer here in zone 6. It may flop but given enough room in the garden,it puts on a tremendous show. I pinch it back until the end of June. Once it is established, it requires very little care. I’ll cut it back to the ground after a hard frost and leave the stems on top of the plant until spring.

Resting on the Japanese Laurel (Aucuba japonica) at The Miller's House Garden in Bethlehem, it is full and bright after only a few years. It’s planted in full sun but will also bloom in some shade.

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Fine Gardening Magazine’s article “Not Your Average Mum” calls it a “workhorse perennial that performs year after year.”

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More Fall Color

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Red Maple.

The colors are so brilliant right now that I have to post a few examples from my garden. I’ll stop with these, I promise.

Sweet Shrub (Calycanthus floridus).

The large maple that shades our house.

Dogwood leaf (Cornus florida).

PJM Rhododendron with its fall purple hue and one over-eager flower.

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(For more check the comments in Fall Color Project on The Home Garden Blog .)

Color of Autumn

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The fall color in Monroe and Carbon Counties peaked this week according to Pocono Mountains Fall Foliage Reports.

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The only day we had available this week turned out cloudy and cool. Even though the colors were not as bright as they might have been in the sun, we enjoyed passing fields and hills covered in bright red, orange, magenta, purple, yellow and gold as we drove north. The view from Penn’s Peak (above and right) was spectacular. We had an enjoyable day taking in nature’s blazing finery.

The variety of species on the mountain is responsible for the mix of colors. Oak, sassafras, maple, walnut, ash, chestnut, locust, hickory, birch, aspen and elm among the evergreens add their glowing color to the mix.

Local color is just starting. The view from Bethlehem’s City Center Plaza shows some bright color mixed with green looking toward South Mountain.

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The current view of the Lehigh River is peacefully green with just a slight touch of color.

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Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum ‘Patriot’), planted this year, is an excellent substitution for the invasive burning bush (Euonymus alatus). The fruit is wonderful and the brilliant fall color is a nice surprise.

Next week the Lehigh Valley should be as colorful as the Poconos. Raking, shredding and composting will begin shortly thereafter. The brilliant show will be over and my world will turn brown until spring. I plan to enjoy the color while it lasts.


(More information on the process of fall leaf color change "The Miracle of Fall" from the University of Illinois Extension.)

(For fall color around the world check out "The Fall Color Project" at The Home Garden http://www.growingthehomegarden.com/2009/09/fall-color-project-2009.html )

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Japanese Anemone

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Anemone x hybrida

One of my favorite plants seems to be a favorite of a garden rogue.

As I was planning to write this blog, I checked to see if I had blogged about anemone before. In the September 24, 2008 post I said, “The flowers are almost 3 inches in diameter. They are rabbit and deer resistant.“

I don’t remember where I got that (mis)information. This year I have had a terrible time keeping the critters away from the anemone. Several times during the summer the leaves were chopped off and left lying on the ground uneaten. Deer, rabbit, groundhog? That meant war.

Like some kind of demented gardener, I regularly kicked the nearby patch of ivy to watch a rabbit run out of the garden. I sprinkled cayenne pepper on the leaves. We had a lot of lovely rain this summer so sometimes I didn’t always get around to reapplying the pepper promptly. I carried cayenne pepper in my tool bucket all summer.

The white anemone made it through and started blooming in the middle of August. It is still blooming. Lovely white, delicate blooms in the partial shade of the French lilac.

The pink anemone was not so fortunate. Just as the buds were forming, they were cut down. My heart sank when I saw the carnage. A growl came out of my throat.

Then, several weeks ago I noticed a few buds and conscientiously began the pepper sprinkling. I finally got a couple of raggedy pink blooms.

I’ll be ready to continue the battle next year. I’m beginning to feel like Carl Spackler in Caddyshack.

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(Historical Japanese anemone information from University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.)
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What I learned about orchids.

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Thomas Puviance, owner of Parkside Orchid Nursery in Ottsville, PA, spoke at the Bethlehem Garden Club meeting this week.

I knew orchids were epiphytic (a plant that grows on another plant but does not depend on it for nutrition.) I knew that Phalaenopsis orchids were one of the easiest to grow. And that’s about it.

Here's what I learned:

- Orchids are not difficult; orchids are different
- Orchid roots need air
- The roots take up water – think rain – absorbed passively through velamen (epidermis of roots)
- Water only when needed – you can judge by weight of the plant or take the whole plant out of the pot and look at it. When in doubt, don’t water.
- Leaf color should be the color of a lime – buy a lime and compare
- There are orchids that need low light, medium light and high light – all orchids need proper light to bloom
- Orchids need a balanced fertilizer – feed weakly, weekly

I visited the Annual Summer Orchid Fest at Parkside several years ago and was blown away with the beauty and profusion of orchids.

As beautiful and exotic as they are, it is not an area of gardening that I am ready to try. Maybe someday.

Photos of Parkside on flickr.
Information for 2010 Parkside Annual Summer Orchid Fest TBA. Includes links to plants for sale, newsletter and more.

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Garden Bloggers Bloom Day - October 2009

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I’ll share a few October blooms with you and peek into other gardens through Carol’s May Dreams Gardens. Thank you, Carol, for hosting this monthly event.

The snapdragons and alyssum (above) fill in between Dusty Miller and herbs.

An electric blue Lobelia volunteer at the end of a window box of parsley

Rose colored mum – another volunteer



Mom’s mum - transplanted from her garden years ago

Dead Nettle (Lamium)

Purple Cleome

White cosmos

Pink Cosmos

Nasturtium

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"Just before the death of flowers,And before they are buried in snow,There comes a festival seasonWhen nature is all aglow."- Author Unknown

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Japanese Holly

I can’t resist a bargain – especially bargain plants. I have ‘Sky Pencil’ Japanese holly (Ilex Crenata) on my list to add some winter interest in the narrow strip along the blank garage wall. At the 50% off sale at Lowe’s this week, I bought three at $3.99 each. I couldn’t pass up that deal.

That started a chain of events.

First, I divided and moved the yellow ‘Autumn Sun’ rudbeckia (Rudbeckia nitida 'Herbstsonne'). It had grown too big for the spot and had to be staked every year. I dug it out and planted one section where I think it may be OK. I put the other two pieces in a temporary bed near the compost bin. (Am I doing the same thing I did with the Red Hot Poker and Liatris? I hope it doesn’t take 4 or 5 years to find them a permanent home.)

Second, I cut off and pulled canna tubers. I need to put them in a bin for the winter as soon as they dry and I can clean off most of the soil. I posted my canna overwintering method (and madness) in the November 10, 2007 post.

Then it was time to plant the holly. They look a bit inadequate now but the slender, slow growing shrubs can grow to 8 feet.

A lump of roots fell away from the soil when I took the holly out of the pots. Roots girdled the pot. I scored the roots and planted them as best I could. I watered them in well.

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I hope they grow an adequate root system to survive the winter. I'll use an anti-desiccant spray to keep them from loosing too much moisture through the leaves in the winter winds and keep them watered until the ground freezes.

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Sometimes, it's the chance you take when you buy plants late in the season. But the price is hard to resist.

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(More information on Japanese holly from University of Connecticut . Scroll down for specifics of ‘Sky Pencil’.)

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Dreaming of Spring

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OK. I’ve started lists for spring. I love making lists. I find great satisfaction in checking off items one by one. It also keeps me from trying to do everything at once, organizes priorities and helps me remember what I want to get done. So here are the lists I started for spring.

To move list:

- Pink azalea to new garden – I put this pretty azalea in a shaded area about 4 years ago. I meant to find a permanent place for it. This past spring it looked dead – broken branches looked gnawed. The other day I saw green growth peeking out from under the hosta leaves. I’ll put a wire fence around it this winter and move it to the new garden in spring.

- Blazing star (Liatris spp.) – another plant I stuck in the ground about 5 years ago until I could find a permanent place. I’ll move this lilac colored flowering plant next to the white liatris near the new Casablanca lilies.

To give away list:

- Red hot poker or torch lily (Kniphofia uvaria) – an extra plant that I don’t have room for. I’ve got a taker for this one. I love when that happens.

- Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) I’ve had a request for a piece of this ferny leafed herb so I’ll dig some out for my friend in spring.

- Perennial Forget-Me-Not (Brunnera macrophylla) - The mass of pretty blue flowers in spring is getting too crowded. They have spread and reseeded throughout the area. I don’t have a taker for them yet. I’ll have to find someone who wants Brunnera or they will become compost.


To divide list:

- Hosta - The hosta is overgrown. I’ll move some to the front of the new garden.

- Liriope (Liriope muscari) – As the hydrangea grows, it’s getting a little crowded. I like liriope’s winter color – deep green leaves with black berries. I’ll see what it looks like over the winter and decide if I will divide and spread it out at the edge of the garden or pot some up to give away – probably both. I’ll need to use my hatchet to divide this tough little clumping plant.

So there are the lists so far. I’m looking forward to another busy spring!

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Iris

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As garden cleanup continues and I dream about spring and next year’s garden.

Last week I cut the old iris leaves and dead foliage. It’s what I do at the beginning of October.

This week I covered the bed with a light layer of compost. It will be a tidier bed for the winter and I won’t have to worry about clean-up in spring or rotting foliage over the winter. The new leaves are beginning to grow.

I look forward to next May and the big display of yellow iris.

Most gardeners I know have this wonderful obsession. We dream and plan and look forward to another gardening season. Next year’s garden is always the best.

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Celtic Classic

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The annual Celtic Classic was held in Bethlehem last weekend. Local Liberty High School Grenadier Band marched with competition pipe bands at the opening ceremonies parade on Saturday.

This year’s Classic was smaller than other years. The Celtic Cultural Alliance worked to make a profit after last year’s disastrous rain and flooding.

Lines at the ticket booths were long. The grandstands were gone from the competition field. But enthusiasm was still evident at the 16 lb. hammer throw as athletes waited their turn to compete.

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Tents filled with fans for a taste of Celtic music. Popular Band Blackwater rocked for fans.

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Even Sunday’s “soft day” didn’t dampen the Celtic enthusiasm with its misty rain.