IPM - Part 3

“The difference between the right word and the almost right word is the difference between lightening and a lightening bug” - Mark Twain

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Integrated Pest Management – IPM (continued)

After a lot of searching, reading, getting confused, starting over, I ran almost ran out of energy. I’ll try to summarize the rest of my research. So hopefully I’m using the “right word” not the “almost right word” ----- or the completely wrong word ---- or omitting an important point. I’ve included a link in each section if you would like more information.

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Mechanical Control of the Adult Beetle

Mechanical methods are very straightforward. Just pop the little buggers into a bucket of soapy water. (And hope they don’t fly away before they hit the suds.) It is suggested this be done in the early morning when they are sleepy.

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Chemical control of grubs

It’s possible to reduce the number of Japanese beetles by attacking the larval stage if the insecticide is applied at the right time. (See part 1.)

One product advertised for Grub control is Grubex manufactured by The Scott Company.

According to Pesticide Action Network (PAN) the hazard warning label is: “III Caution” or slight toxicity.

The active ingredient is halofenozid which is listed as a “potential” groundwater contaminant. It is easy to apply with the proper spreader setting. One bag costs about $20 and covers 5,000 sq. ft.

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Biological control of grubs

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Milky Spore - Bacillus popilliae

Bacteria can also be used to combat grubs. Milky Spore Bacillus popilliae is specific for Japanese beetle larvae. The US EPA fact sheet includes a description of the active ingredients, its uses and risks.

Milky spore is found naturally in the soil and is not harmful to humans. It does not affect beneficial insects. On the downside, it is relatively expensive and may require application for 3 or 4 years before it is effective. But it may be effective for 10 years.

At Gardener’s Supply a 10 oz can of Milky Spore powder costs $39.95 and covers 2,500 sq. ft.

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Nematodes - Heterorhabditis bacteriophora

“Biological Control: A guide to Natural Enemies in North America,” Cornell University notes: Relative effectiveness depends on several factors. They have to be kept alive during shipping and application.

Nematodes are roundworms that have a very short “shelf life” Nematodes need to be kept wet and breakdown rapidly in sunlight and are effective in a narrow range of temperature. When used correctly they can be very effective

You can buy 1 million nematodes in Grub Guard (Steinernema sp. and Heterorhabditis sp.) at Gardener’s Supply for $19.95.

The biggest drawback to using nematodes seems to be the difficulty in application.

Grub Guard –Norganics.com is a manufacturer of organic fertilizers in Bradford Vermont. “Grub Guard nematodes are shipped alive and should be released into a thoroughly moist soil or growing media as soon as possible.”

Thirteen instructions for application, mixing and dilution are listed.

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Bt - Bacillus thuringiensis

University of Virginia Extension lists several varieties of Bt. It would be necessary to find the right variety for grubs.

Bt occurs naturally in soil. Bt products are applied much like synthetic insecticides and treatments are inactivated within one to a few days in many outdoor situations. Repeated applications may be necessary for some crops and pests.

Bt products need to be handled with care. Inhaling dusts or mists may cause allergic reaction or if rubbed on the skin may cause irritation. It is advised that you wear gloves, long sleeves and long trousers during application and wash thoroughly afterwards.

There are several online sites that offer Bt products for sale.

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CONCLUSION

This series of posts was really not about the Japanese beetle. As I worked on the series I tried to follow one pest through the IPM process as honestly, objectively and logically as I could.

The posts are really about the ease or difficulty of the IPM process.

Did I make this process harder than it needs to be? Am I missing something? I don’t know.

I learned a lot during the process. There are now more things that I won’t have to search out again. Somehow a great idea like Integrated Pest Management should be easier for the average gardener. I think it is worth the effort if we are truly concerned about the environment.

What are your thoughts about Integrated Pest Management?

(Comments, arguments, corrections welcome)

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IPM - Part 2

Integrated Pest Management - IPM (Continued from last post)

"Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot,

Nothing is going to get better. It's not."
— Dr. Seuss, from The Lorax

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This is an extremely long post and for that, I apologize. Even with all its length, I could not cover everything. It is not a scholarly work – I am as far from being a chemist as anyone could be - but I’m determined to continue my journey through IPM with the Japanese beetle as best I can.

In order to make an informed decision, I need to understand the effects of the options from the last post - chemical, biological or mechanical. I started with a spray for adult beetle.

Spraying – Chemical Control of Adult Japanese Beetle

Have you ever read a pesticide label - that is, assuming you have excellent eyesight or a magnifying glass? Directions for use are very clear. “Read the label and follow the directions”, has become a gardening mantra. I can do that.

But what is in the spray? I chose Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Flower Insect Killer because it is labeled for Japanese beetles (adult). I mean to neither promote nor condemn this product but I had to pick something. I have not used this product. This is simply an example of what it took for me to understand a pesticide label.

Bayer Advanced Dual Action Rose and Flower Insect Killer label:
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
ß-cyfluthrin................................. 0.0015%
Imidacloprid.............................. 0.012%
OTHER INGREDIENTS.................... 99.9865%
100.0000%
ß-cyfluthrin is the chemical name for Tempo® Ultra.
Imidacloprid is the chemical name for Merit®.
EPA Reg. No. 72155-28
EPA Est. No. indicated by 2nd and 3rd digits of the batch number on
this package. (65) = 432-TX-1 (39) = 58996-MO-1
(68) = 67572-GA-1 (75) = 5905-AR-1 3953398 R.0


I used Extoxnet and clicked on Pesticide Information Profiles (PIP) link to find the chemicals in this spray. It reads like a scholarly/governmental publication.

As far as I can tell from the label, this spray is in Toxicity Category III – “Caution” (Slightly Toxic). The Toxicity Categories are: IV None, III Caution; II Warning, I Danger - with “Category I Danger” being the most toxic. This scale is based on the LD50 number.

LD50 is the amount of pesticide, measured in milligrams per kilogram of body weight, that will kill one half of the exposed population.

First, ß-cyfluthrin – Tempo® Ultra

LD50 for a 150 lb. human for category III Caution ingestion total of one ounce to one pint, I think. I could use some help here. I found the Toxicity section of Extoxnet difficult to understand. From what I got it would take a pint of Cyfluthrin to kill 50% of the chickens or something like that. If you understand this measurement, please enlighten me. The amount of beta-cyfluthrin in this spray is .0015% in 24 fl. oz. or close to 1/25th of an ounce.

“Cyfluthrin is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide that has both contact and stomach poison action” What is a pyrethroid? Pyrethroids are axonic poisons. Definition from Wikipedia: “Pyrethroids are axonic poisons that work by keeping the sodium channels open in the neuronal membranes of insects.” (Huh?)

There is a lot more information in the PIP but how much can you read before your brain goes tilt?


Next, Imidacloprid - Merit®.

Extension Toxicology Network search for Imidacloprid brought up a Pesticide Information Profile. “Imidacloprid is a systemic, chloro-nicotinyl insecticide with soil, seed and foliar uses for the control of sucking insects…”

I won’t go through the entire toxicity report. Imidacloprid is moderately toxic to mammals. LD50 is 450 mg/kg body weight in rats – the low end of category III Warning. The spray contains .012% or somewhere near 1/5th of an ounce.

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Environmental Effect

I thought I would look at the Environmental Fate section of the PIP and try to understand the long term effects of Imidacloprid on the environment. “The half-life of imidacloprid in soil is 48-190 days, depending on the amount of ground cover.” “The half-life in water is much greater than 31 days at pH 5, 7 and 9. No other information was found.” I have no idea what the “Breakdown of Chemical in Vegetation” section means.

Effects on other animals

Are there animals that eat the beetles that will be affected by the poisons? I remember the disastrous effect of DDT sprays on birds. I couldn’t find any helpful information on this level.

Also, while eliminating one pest, I don’t want to kill beneficial insects and make my garden problems worse. A warning on the label:“• Apply the product to flowering plants during early morning or late evening, when bees are not present.” I must assume it will kill beneficial insects and another good reason to follow label directions.

What about groundwater contamination? Since it is sprayed on foliage groundwater contamination does not seem to be a major concern.

Agriicultural and Environmental News from Dr. Allan S. Felsot, Environmental Toxicologist, a Washington State University has this to say:

"Imidacloprid has a comparatively high water solubility (510 mg/L) and very low vapor pressure (1.9 x 10-9 mm Hg), so it is unlikely to evaporate from soil and plant surfaces and become an air contaminant. On the other hand, its biodegradation rate in soil has been characterized as moderately slow, with about 50% of the applied residue dissipating in a range of 48-190 days.”

Other Ingredients

Who knows what 99.9865 “other ingredients” are? The answer, it turns out, is no one except the manufacturer.

According to EPA “Regulating Pesticides”

“An inert ingredient means any substance (or group of structurally similar substances if designated by the Agency), other than an active ingredient, which is intentionally included in a pesticide product. Inert ingredients play a key role in the effectiveness of a pesticidal product. For example, inert ingredients may serve as a solvent, allowing the pesticide's active ingredient to penetrate a plant's outer surface. . .”

I hope you can see difficulty of trying to interpret the pesticide label. I hope my conclusions are correct. (I kind of gave up at the end of this post and resorted to quotes. Sorry.)

One conclusion – we need an easier way for the public to make informed decisions about pesticide use. At least there is somewhere to look for information.

It seems that “slightly toxic” is just that – but it is not without concerns.

Next post will look at grub control and mechanical methods. I hope you return.

(Comments, arguments, corrections welcome)


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Bethlehem Garden Club Flower Show

“Home for the Holidays”

to benefit BGC Scholarship Fund.
Ideas galore for your holiday décor.
Sale of house plants, baked goods, holiday decorations, books.
BGC always does a beautiful job. Come and enjoy.
Location: Advent Moravian Church, 3730 Jacksonville Rd. Bethlehem.

Dates: Friday, November 13, 3-8, Saturday November 14, 10-3.

Free.
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IPM – Part 1

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Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

Man at the market: "My wife asked me to buy ORGANIC vegetables. Have these been sprayed with any poisonous chemicals?" - "No," replied the gardener, "you'll have to do that yourself." Anon.

I sat in on an IPM class at Lehigh County Extension this week. I came away determined to better understand IPM use in a home garden. It turned into a major project. I’ll try to follow my steps on this and subsequent posts. I hope I don’t cause you to doze off or run screaming from your monitor.

Integrated Pest Management definition: A scientific approach to effectively manage pests while minimizing negative effects on the environment.

“IPM for the Home Garden” by Karen Delahaut, Integrated Pest Management Specialist, University of Wisconsin-Madison explains it better than I ever could.

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Possible slug damage on Rudbeckia.

(The basic management methods for IPM including plant selection, maintenance, etc. are listed in my IPM post of December 7, 2007 and are a very important part of Integrated Pest Management.)

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IPM is a decision making process. The steps: 1) Properly identify the pest and it’s life cycle. 2) Monitor the pests’ presence, locations and abundance. 3) Establish a limit to the amount of pests you can tolerate. 4) Decide on a plan of action (or non-action).

I’ll try to follow the Japanese beetle through the IPM process.

IDENTIFICATION.

Most gardeners recognize the hard-shelled, iridescent beetle and it’s destruction on trees, vines, roses, canna and other ornamental plants. That’s the simple part and the reason I chose Japanese beetle. Some pests are not so easy to recognize. And Japanese beetles give most gardeners fits in my area. So . . . check off identification.

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Japanese beetle on bean leaf.

PRESENCE, LOCATION, ABUNDANCE and TOLERANCE:

In 2007, Japanese beetles overran my garden. The last two years populations have been much less. How many beetles are too many? For some gardeners the answer is one. Others will put up with a few. Some will gardeners tolerate a chewing mob of beetles and just ignore them.

LIFE CYCLE.

I’ll begin a year-long life span of the Japanese beetle when they are seen happily chewing away on a plant. The female leaves the plant from time to time and burrows into the soil to lay eggs. The eggs hatch in midsummer and the grubs begin to feed on roots. They remain in the soil becoming inactive going deeper in cold weather. They move toward the surface again in early spring. In warmer weather they turn into pupae and adults emerge to start the cycle over.

THE OPTIONS

Japanese beetles are difficult to kill in the adult stage. Pheromone traps that have been developed confuse breeding beetles but tend to eliminate only about 50% or 60% of the population. Traps actually attract more beetles to the garden. There are sprays that may kill the beetles. I have not heard many good reports of the effectiveness of sprays.

Hand picking into a bucket of soapy water every morning when they are slow to move is an excellent non-chemical solution but it may not be an option for every gardener. This may be the best practice if there is a low count or if the gardener has a high tolerance for large populations.

There are options that are effective in the larval stage. Here timing is important. Grubs need to be near the surface which usually happens in June or July here in zone 6. We can tell when there are grubs near the surface in our yard. When the skunks forage for grubs at night, they leave round shallow holes in the grass. This is a sure sign that grubs are near the surface. Lifting a small clump of sod will also unearth some grubs.

I am trying to keep an open mind. I’ll look at the options in the next blog. Are we having fun yet?

In the meantime, here are two publications recommended by Lyn Garling, Program Manager PA IPM, Penn State University “Welcome to IPM” and the ”Extension Toxicology Network”.

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(Comments, arguments, corrections welcome.)

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Integrated Pest Management

IPM

Integrated Pest Management - see http://paipm.cas.psu.edu/


What it is.

A quote from Longwood Gardens:

“IPM does not simply mean that more pests must be tolerated or that pesticide applications should not be made. IPM seeks to find the most effective yet least intrusive way to reduce the potential impact of pests.” http://www.longwoodgardens.org/IntegratedPestManagement_1_3_2_3_3_4.html

What it isn’t.

It isn’t easy.

IPM starts with selecting the right plant. Healthy plants are less susceptible to stress related disease and pests. Toting mulch and compost are necessary chores. Shrubs and trees need to be pruned – plant litter cleaned up. Weeds need to be pulled. A soil test is necessary to tell exactly what the soil needs instead of fertilizing by month of the growing season. Grass may need to be mowed more than once a week in good grass weather if cut at 2 ½ to 3 inches. Understanding the life cycle of insects is essential in order to use insecticides wisely. There is a lot to learn and do.

Penn State University’s IPM publications offer loads of information for homeowners.

Creating Healthy Landscapes Series (all PDF files)

#1: Introduction

#2: Choose Plants Wisely

#3: Plant with Care

#4: Promote Plant Health

#5: Keep Plants Well Groomed

#6: Monitor Pests and Keep Records

#7: Pest Management Methods

#8: Recognize and Conserve Natural Enemies

#9: Use Nature's Signals to Manage Landscape Plants


IPM may generate low maintenance lawns and gardens in the long run. Healthy plants require less upkeep. Choosing plants wisely, planting with care and conserving natural enemies will go a long way to reduce work in the yard.